Sake 101

What is sake ?

Saké is an all-natural rice-based fer­mented alco­holic bev­er­age. Saké is made like beer and served like wine, with tast­ing char­ac­ter­is­tics and alco­hol con­tent very sim­i­lar to wine. Saké is made from four main ingre­di­ents: rice, water, yeast and koji, an enzyme. It is very pure and clean.

Saké is a 6800-year-old bev­er­age. Saké-making imple­ments have been dis­cov­ered in the Yangtze River Val­ley in China dat­ing back to 4800 BC. This about the time that nomadic man set­tled down, and one the­ory holds that the rea­son nomadic man set­tled down was to grow rice so he could enjoy saké on a reg­u­lar basis.

There are over 14,000 dif­fer­ent sakés pro­duced by 1800 sakéries world­wide, pri­mar­ily in Japan. In the United States there are about 200 dif­fer­ent sakés pro­duced by the 4 sakéries in the United States. Three of the sakéries are in Cal­i­for­nia and one is in Oregon.

Saké was actu­ally first made in China, but was later dra­mat­i­cally improved in Japan. It is now made in many coun­tries around the world such as the United States, Brazil, Viet­nam, China, Korea and Japan.

World­wide, one out of three glasses of wine con­sumed is saké. In the United States, two out of one hun­dred glasses of wine are saké. Saké sales in the past 10 years have quadru­pled, and saké enjoy­ment in the US may some day reach the world stan­dard of one out of three glasses of wine.

How Saké is made

As with the best wine made from grapes, the finest saké starts with the finest pre­mium ingre­di­ents — the purest water, high qual­ity saké rice, spe­cial yeast, and koji.

The starches in rice are con­cen­trated in the cen­ter of the rice grain. For pre­mium and super pre­mium saké, the out­side of the grain, con­tain­ing the unde­sir­able fat and pro­tein, is pol­ished away. This exposes the heart of the rice that con­tains the starch that will be con­verted to fer­mentable sugars.

The rice is pol­ished washed and soaked to bring up the water con­tent, and then steamed. Part of the steamed rice is reserved for koji.

Koji is the key to the saké mak­ing process. Koji mold is cul­ti­vated on a bed of steamed rice and this mold eats its way into the rice. As this occurs, the enzymes pro­vided break down the rice’s starch mol­e­cules into smaller sugar mol­e­cules that are food for the yeast. The process relies on the proper tem­per­a­ture and humid­ity and is done in a spe­cial room much like a sauna to main­tain the proper con­di­tions. This process takes about 2 weeks.

 

 

 

Steamed rice and koji are sent to the yeast starter room, and moto (yeast starter) is pre­pared. Moto is added over a period of 4 days to the rice, water and koji. Fer­men­ta­tion occurs over a period of 18–32 days. The saké is then fil­tered, aged, pas­teur­ized and bottled.

Types of Saké

There are two broad cat­e­gories of sake: Jun­mai and Honjozo.

Jun­mai means that no dis­tilled alco­hol has been added.

Hon­jozo means that dis­tilled alco­hol has been added.

Hon­jozo in Japan is defined as no more than 5% dis­tilled alco­hol added by vol­ume. There are sakés that have more alco­hol added than Hon­jozo, but they are almost never imported into the United States.

In Japan, about 88% of all sakés made have dis­tilled alco­hol added. This dis­tilled alco­hol can be processed grain alco­hol. For the finer sakés, it may be dis­tilled alco­hol col­lected from the esters dur­ing fer­men­ta­tion and dis­tilled down in a mini-distillery to be added back dur­ing the blend­ing of the saké to enhance the aroma. Either method of adding dis­tilled alco­hol to saké is ille­gal in the United States. How­ever, this Hon­jozo style of saké can be imported into the United States.

Within these two broad cat­e­gories of saké, there are sev­eral types related to qual­ity. The qual­ity is deter­mined by how much of the outer ker­nel of the rice is milled away. Milling removes the pro­tein and fatty acids in rice ker­nels and leaves the dense starch packet at the cen­ter of the ker­nel. The more of the outer coat­ing that is milled away, the higher the qual­ity the saké will be.

How to serve Saké

In 2 words: Chill Out!

Good saké is always served chilled, mediocre saké can be served warm and bad saké should be boiled! Econ­omy saké may be served warm and this has its place on a cold win­ter night. The cer­e­mony of serv­ing saké warm, where you don’t pour for your­self, but pour for oth­ers, sends a sign of respect.

Chilled pre­mium sakés were first intro­duced in the late 1960’s. Saké-making tech­nol­ogy, par­tic­u­larly in rice milling, had improved so dra­mat­i­cally that it enabled saké­mak­ers to make sakés so del­i­cate they are actu­ally dam­aged by heat.

 

 

 

 

 

Some peo­ple enjoy using the tra­di­tional square masu boxes to drink saké. This was a tra­di­tional rice-measuring device, typ­i­cally made from aro­matic cedar, which imparts aro­mas to the saké. Other peo­ple enjoy their saké on the rocks in a tum­bler. Our favorite way to serve saké is chilled in a wine glass, which enhances the enjoy­ment of the sub­tle aro­mas and fla­vors of pre­mium saké.

When serv­ing saké chilled, we rec­om­mend serv­ing it at 45 degrees F (7 degrees C), which makes for a won­der­fully refresh­ing first taste. In a wine glass, the tem­per­a­ture of the saké grad­u­ally increases, which changes the aroma and fla­vors and is great fun to follow.

Saké should be stored in a cool place, out of strong light. It does not age like wine does, and is best when fresh. Once opened, saké will stay fresh for about a week in the refrigerator.

Saké enjoy­ment is grow­ing rapidly in the US because of three main trends. The first is the grow­ing influ­ence of Asian cui­sine. Amer­i­cans enjoy an Asian wine, saké, with their Asian cui­sine. The sec­ond major trend is the grow­ing aware­ness of the impor­tance of a healthy lifestyle. Unlike wine, saké has no sul­fites. Twenty five per­cent of all Amer­i­cans believe that they are aller­gic to sul­fites. Saké has one-third the acid­ity of wine, so it is easy on the stom­ach. Pre­mium saké is vir­tu­ally hang­over free because it is so pure. The third trend is that saké is so mix­able, and it has become the base for many excit­ing new cocktails.

Saké can be paired with any foods that wine is paired with, but it goes excep­tion­ally well with lightly pre­pared seafood and veg­eta­bles and, of course, any Asian cui­sine. Saké can be com­pared to steamed white rice, in that it har­mo­nizes with what­ever it is served with, actu­ally enhanc­ing the aro­mas and taste of most foods.

Saké is a very ver­sa­tile drink. It can be served warm, chilled or on the rocks. It can be used as an excel­lent low alco­hol mixer in cock­tails. Saké is the secret ingre­di­ent of many chefs and can be used in cook­ing just like a wine. It is an excel­lent mixer and is the basis for many won­der­ful new cocktails.

 

About Larry Canepa

Experienced in food and beverage management in all aspects of the restaurant industry, Culinary Arts Education including Restaurant Operations, Supervision, Professional Business Etiquette, Culinary Theory, Advanced Menu Design, and Food Service Technology. Excellent knowledge of current culinary trends, food quality and food and beverage preparation and presentation.

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